A collection of family shots

We've had a few pretty uneventful days (despite all the extremely adorable images I'm about to share), the most significant being some pretty terrible toddler moments. As you can probably tell, managing a (we have now discovered) teething two year old is pushing the tolerance levels. 

However, a little while ago I read that looking at photographs of your children actually releases oxytocin into the brain (the same hormone that is released during labour so that you're actually willing to do it and makes you feel loving toward the beast that's literally tearing you apart) – so despite our challenging days, here is a stack of images to prove that I'm being overly dramatic and it's actually awesome here. 

There's a bunch of pictures from Kent's phone, so these images are really from about day 1 of our arrival.

Enjoy!

xx

Lj.

Freezing our tits off outside Daikanyama T-site – incredible magical bookstore with a giant starbucks (almost on every corner here. Luckily we have been finding totally primo cafes so this was more of a warming up stop off!). I don't want to admit how good the hot chocolate ... with whipped cream ... and a white chocolate cookie of terror really was.
BUT IT WAS SO GOOD. 

Those who know us well know that sugar is off the table for Viv.
But Japan doesn't really do babycinos here, so I let him lick the whipped cream off the lid of my hot chocolate. 

Kent's victory face – after our toddler-tantrum day of hell (see previous post), I got back to our apartment to discover my beloved beanie was missing! Lo and behold Kent found it at the lost and found at his residency. Bless you amazing honest Japanese people. I have already had requests to have the pom pom photographed, so I know this baby is hot property.

A momentary rest in Daikanyama. 

Beautiful play/reading area at Kitazawa/Book House in Jinbocho, renowned as 'second hand book town.' Having these areas for children makes shopping (for kid's stuff at least) so dreamy. Listening to Kent make up stories from books written in Japanese is pretty entertaining too. 

This image makes me very happy, as it was snapped while I was IN BED THIS MORNING! SLEEPING IN!!! Kent took Viv out early (little shit bag came in at 5.37am this morning asking if it was morning yet and could he get in our bed) for breakfast and a playground run so I could catch up on some sleep. And eating alone. And showering alone. And dressing alone. It was heavenly. The things we view as treats eh?? 

When he was still adorable – the first day we visited at Kent's residency and he insisted on wearing all of our hats.

Somewhat mythical, the Octopus Slide park that I knew existed, but couldn't find the address. It turns out it's just on the other side of the train station near the yoga studio in Ebisu. This is now a luring park used for good behaviour. Who am I kidding? All the parks are used in this way: 'Are you going to behave? If you want to go to the playground you need to be quiet/sit still/don't touch.' So far, so good. There was a small incident today that involved running away in a ceramics shop and then falling down some stairs (he's fine) while I had my hands full of breakables. The playground plan was abolished, not before the entire shop could be filled with wails of 'I'm not sad anymoooooooooore!!!' 

Another shot from this morning's breakfast run.

Awesome coffee place near us, that make my 'paleo' breakfast: eggslut. What this is supposed to be, I do not know, but I DO know that it appears to be instant mashed potato with an egg on top in a little ramekin, that I am pretty confident is microwaved to perfection. Whatever, they cook the egg to perfection and their flat whites are heavenly. While coffee costs a small fortune here, food is remarkably cheap and cheerful – and delicious. 

Speaking of, the yakitori (meat on a stick?) stand that Kent visited on his way home from work tonight, without actually bringing any back for us?! Despite is being so very delicious!?!? For the record, ¥150 is about $1.75 Australian. Hello.

Another early image of another 'coffee stand' (what we'd call a hole in the wall) near us. This was the beginning of the scary random tantrum attacks. They are as loud as they are unpredictable. Luckily they don't seem to linger, but can occur at any time, scaring the shit out of us and surrounding humans. 

Just protecting the plant wares. 

It's freaky how similar Viv's smug face is to Kent's. Even freakier is the way he strutted around stating
'I'm a DOC-tor', also just like Kent. 

Back at 3331 Arts Chiyoda (the residency) – it is a multi-function series of spaces, where lots of events and exhibitions are held. Sometimes there are water fairies. Apparently that's what a water fairy looks like in Japan. We told Viv to aim a little higher when listening to his heart. 

There are a lot of giant characters, televisions on every train, the occasional sugary treat.
The comedown from this place is a real struggle. There is something quite heartbreaking about a child that so sincerely does not want to go 'home' to the apartment after playing with all those toys and listening to the genital-hearts of water fairies. Or have his nappy changed. Or go down for a nap. Or wake up from his nap. Or eat his sandwich. Or let me eat his sandwich. 

I finally got the kid outside (after about 45 minutes of coaxing [pleading] 'if we don't go out now, the sunshine will go and we'll miss it for another day' – truth, the sun goes down at 4.45pm) on the promise of rainbow-hunting, and found this freaky as fuck character instead. FYI, that 'nose' totally waggled. In a phallic type way. 

When you have a toddler and you're pregnant and can't drink wine. This is about 20% of the wall of treats.

Viv snogging a giant cat.

We had to go back for more and more and more cat cuddles, pats, kisses. All the love to the cat.

Just in case you were all getting jealous of all the amazing cuisine we're eating and creating.
This was even grosser than it looks. You should not be able to eat noodles with a knife and fork. 

At Ark Hills in Roppongi. This quite incredible area of Tokyo that is super joozsy, but also totally accessible. On the ground it is like the most inner area of the CBD of most cities, but if you know where to look, you discover weird utopian concrete village wonderlands. I'm not sure how you would properly describe it, but this place is part of the entire Roppongi Hills precinct – here we are at the Mori Tower, which connects to Ark Hills South Tower and I think the East Tower, all by glassy walkways and bridges that look like a VCE Vis Comm student's wet dream. Have no idea what I'm talking about? Neither do I! The front facade just looks like a giant hotel complex (which it is I think) and inside you have about 3 levels of food places. Then many open areas such as this where your small child can RUN!!!

Behind that rainbow sculpture thing was a tiny market selling European style antiques. I decided to come here for the farmer's market, which I didn't actually find, but also didn't look to hard for. I wasn't entirely sure if I was on the right level (this was level 2), or in the right tower. We did find a french bakery and a snazzy coffee shop and enjoyed a cheap picnic by the water fountain. This may not seem very special, but in a city where it is nearly impossible to find anywhere safe to sit outside to eat your lunch, it was amazing. 

And this was my view from the fountain on level 2. Note to parents travelling to Tokyo in the future. These places are a haven for elevators, change rooms and giant toilets (priceless when travelling with the smalls). Word on the street that down in Roppongi Hills (another train station away – or maybe only another sky-bound walkway?) there is an incredible indoor parents/play room for the rainy days. I'm saving that one – today we were blessed with 12 degrees, no arctic wind and plenty of sun.

Back on the ground, stuck on a tollway crossing. You need to plan your visit carefully as crossing the road is really tricky – very few pedestrian crossings available! 

A Viv with sushi at our closest playground is a happy Viv indeed. The only problem with playgrounds here is that the ground is fine gravel dust (and all the 'sandpits' are simply an extension of this, but just fenced in) and not many places to sit. We're on one of those weird twirly thingos.

Viv was in an incredibly (insistantly) independent mood today. He also insisted on selecting and carrying his groceries at the supermarket (bananas and onions, FYI), using my train ticket to get through the barrier and pressing the buttons always for the lifts. His new catchphrase is 'And I should like ...' before making a selection (usually food or stickers related). 

And again, despite the horrible meltdowns, the exhaustion and general contrariness, he seems to like it here.
(He visits a playground at least twice, usually more, a day. What's not to love?!) 

A compendium of slides and Phernergan fail.

I debated whether to share our little Phernergan experiment, but have decided that if I think it's ok to brag about my cute kid on the internet, I also need to share the love when things go terribly wrong. We have an overnight flight booked for our return, and after our last experience of this with a small human, we decided to at least get the script for Phernergan and JUST SEE. Apparently you need to test it out on your child before you 'need' to use it, in case they have an adverse reaction (meaning: completely opposite effect).

Well. It was totally unremarkable. Woo hoo! Viv went to bed and then woke up at a standard time the next day. He may have been slightly more sedated, there was a little less shouting through the night (but my plans of him sleeping in until 9 failed, so to perfectly honest I thought it seemed pointless).

But then the following day happened. Oh. My. God. The Day of The Tantrum. I now have children kicking me inside and out (because I'm pregnant – no one is kicking me THAT hard from the outside, ew.) and it's terrifying. To top off The Day of The Tantrum, it then followed with The Night of the All Night. Have you ever had one of those days where all you can do is long for it to be over, but then you also dread the night because you fear it might be worse? Since we've been here, I've been sleeping incredibly badly. Last night was exceptionally alert for everyone, with Viv still fussy (at one point wailing 'I've got boogies coming out!')  and restless after his evil mother drugged him the night before (I'm sorry I'm sorry I'm sorry) and the noises in our apartment were slowly eating away at my soul.

Earlier in the day, our host delivered some additional supplies after an irritable guest (moi) demanded that she provide sponges and tea towels provided so we could at least wash our dishes. A common feature of Japanese apartments is that almost every wall is fitted with a little computer that operates the hot water/heating/front door/mystery item.  As this is my second trip to Japan and 4th apartment here, I now understand how terribly spoiled I've been. Usually these panels are plastered with tiny little dymo labels for losers like me who can't read Japanese, reading 'yes/no/hot/cold/don't touch this EVER. It's great!

However in THIS apartment, there is NOTHING. Just a void of Kanji characters and a smug yet valid air of 'learn another language you lazy shits.' This apartment also has a function that is new to me, called 'Ventilation'. What this means is that the fan in the bathroom does many things and has many buttons. And is incredibly fucking noisy – from where we sleep it's a similar sound to a leaf blower that happens to be in bed with you, with an extra whistle from the corner. Pair this with the fridge and the mystery tap-tap from under the sink (we're on the third floor. Can rats climb?) and the fact that I ate a bowl of choco flakes, half a block of chocolate and a hot chocolate before bed (it was a really hard day and I can't drink), I was pretty much tweaking.

To get to the point. After the host delivered our extra treats, she reset the whole ventilation panel so it was on a timer, I suspect to punish us for being irritating. Last night I got up 3 times to turn it off and was halfway between writing a 3am email to the host and weeping into my tatami mat before I finally managed to turn the fucker off.

So I have taken it upon myself to annotate it for anyone else who might visit Japan, and might need help with this extra fun contraption. You're welcome.

I finally accepted my insomnia fate at 4am, and simply waited patiently in bed for morning. If I hadn't been so tired, I would have gone to the 24 shopping mall nearby to see what the fuck people do at 3am in Tokyo – which I plan on doing next time. Fortunately I drifted into a gentle noncommittal doze shortly after 5, to then be awoken by the pitter patter of little shits at 6.15. AREN'T YOU EXHAUSTED FROM SCREAMING ALL DAY AND THROUGH THE NIGHT?!

However, the optimist in me (she is very very small and weak) is able to brightly accept that today is written off due to the forecast for snow and rain, and the added fact that I am a mere shell of a human. Kent started work late so I could TREAT MYSELF to a trip to the supermarket alone, giving me time and space to use google translate for every single packaged good (I gave up when an onigiri rice ball filling came up as 'sexy power'). From there I took reckless stabs at selecting food that looked interesting. I'll keep you posted.

But that sounds terribly sad – it isn't having an all nighter has reset my thinking brain, and I am now on fire. Below are a series of images from our last few days to cheer you up – I know it make it seem like it's all ventilation this, and panel that, but in reality, what a wonderful time we are having despite those very small irritations. It has to be said that having extra time with Kent has been incredible, and each day I am amazed at his ability to get up and hang out with us for a few hours before going to work – he's seen so much, written so much, met so many people, yet for me it feels like we've been chilling out drinking coffee for the last week. So everyone wins.

Compared to our last trip here 18 months ago, boutique coffee shops have popped up everywhere. This gorgeous little cafe near our apartment has won my heart with delicious coffee and ego stroking – I think I must be able to imitate well, as whenever I say hello/thank you or order anything, locals think I speak Japanese, and then are very complimentary about my small efforts – It's encouraging and inspiring to try and learn more. This is my breakfast* from yesterday, which I couldn't resist ordering because it was 'eggslut' on the menu. An egg over mashed potato – quite possibly instant mashed potato, and the only paleo thing (maybe) I have found in Tokyo. This country knows how to cook an egg to perfection.

*Gah I admit it, I had a Croque Monsieur too. SO MUCH WHITE CHEESEY GOODNESS.

This was one of the funniest experiences ever, when a group of school girls turned around and saw Viv on the train. 20 minutes of photos, giggling (mostly from him) and squealing selfies (mostly from them) ensued. I was torn between 'ok girls, that's enough – just ONE photo each' to 'just give me a minute so I can fix his hair.' So unbelievably smarmy. Kent and I have never seen Viv behave that way. He was giddy.

Wednesday we ventured to little district west of Shibuya, Shimo-Kitazawa. Painfully self-aware with trendiness, it is like the Brunswick of Tokyo. Lots of little bars and music venues, vintage and second hand shops and your usual fare. We were turned away from a Cafe because we had Viv too. However some seriously good shopping was had, and Viv was remarkably chilled out for a kid who desperately needed a playground and a poo (both were discovered after lunch, thank god). 

Another day of sunshine and loveliness.

Just a few weeks ago this kid was terrified of slides. Now it is the ultimate zone for getting out his yah-yahs.

Most inanimate objects here have faces.

In the play area at 3331 (Kent's residency). I should have seen this as an omen. Because the tantrum that followed was colossal.  

That's right. That's my hand holding him down on the change table. For the first time ever I had to use the restraints provided to prevent injury to him or myself. It's also the first time a child's scream has created an instant headache behind my temple and an uncontrollable urge to cry and lash out myself. This trip has certainly tested our tolerance for bullshit behaviour – I truly can understand how parents hit their children. I'm of course not advocating it in any way, but it took a lot, a LOT of restraint not to do it. Parents who deal with this behaviour on a regular basis, I fucking salute you. 

Naturally as soon as I got Viv's pants back on I scurried out of 3331 with my head and heart pounding and my gaze to the floor and headed straight back home to put the little demon to bed. So what's a girl to do while her firstborn sleeps? Why, put the heater up to 18 (look out) and prance around taking gratuitous belly shots. It's easy to forget I'm pregnant here because of all the layers, so I don't notice how big I'm getting. And yes, I am only 25 weeks. I'd say that the belly is 20/80 ratio of baby to choco flakes.

More slides near our apartment to soothe the savage beast.

Today is a new day, a new slide!! This is just as it began to snow. That's a tempura sweet potato from the supermarket in Viv's hand – after I gave it to him I realised how here that seemed like a perfectly acceptable snack food, where as it's pretty much akin to giving your kid a potato cake that you brought home at 1am the night before.
I don't even know myself any more. 

So far we've only had a handful of tantrums and one cafe extraction,
but I wanted to emphasise that there is still love in the child. 

Originally I had planned on taking Viv across town to the Toyko Toy Museum, but what with the promise of rain our respective energy levels, a day at home seemed appropriate. We've settled in for a day indoors with drawing, games and sleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep. 

xox

Lj. 

Toddlers are arseholes

It would appear that living in a tiny shoebox apartment while 6 months pregnant with a 2 year old ('I'm two but and I'm nearly getting three!') actually SUCKS.

Don't get me wrong. I know where we are. I know why we're here. I know exactly how privileged we are to be here (I think it amounts to about eleventy gold power bars of life wonder and happiness). This city is incredible and we are free to enjoy it. Sort of. It turns out that this pregancy is pretty boring and limiting in terms of energy levels and chronic pain associated with it. I have new empathy for those with chronic-chronic forever pain. However, once Viv is in bed, and I can reflect on the day we've had in pictures, I am constantly amazed at the things we get to experience here. The images below are from the past 3 days – the reason I'm showing boring images too is to not rub it in everyone's face too much (a little smudge, sure – Tokyo is fucking awesome). While we are getting to do some pretty indulgent stuff, it's also frustrating and exhausting.

Total apartment envy (because I hate the apartment we are currently in). This is a view from a Tokyo University Fine Art studio window. So I also have studio view envy. We went to the 4th year painting show – this apartment was the highlight for me. Look at that wall garden! That's composition kids, learn it. 

Totally overwhelming, frantic and exciting lunch experience near Ueno station. It was a tiny soba noodle bar that once we were inside realised we had to line up, with the folded up stroller, and the small child, with a queue amassing behind us so there was no escape. The menu was entirely in Japanese, but with some pictures. All I saw was a giant bundle of tempura mystery and knew I had to have it. Sorry pancreas. It was stifling hot in the bar but the food was delicious despite having to feed Viv with chopsticks (which I'm told is a massive faux pas). We are still getting used to disrobing coats and scarves and navigating a spot to put them when we go inside these places – many have little considerate baskets under the tables to put your things. I wouldn't think twice about putting my coat on the floor at home – but here it just feels wrong.

There is a lot of walking here AND I'm pregnant. No Peppa Pig unless my feet get adequately massaged. 

Yet another stunning coffee shop, this one in Omotesando (translate = heavenly wonderland of beauty [I made that up]). No babycinos on the menu at trendy Tokyo coffee roasters, but when I'm feeling bold, I ask for a 'shoto miruku for baby kudasai?', which roughly translates as a 'short milk for turdbag please?'.  These places are havens for peace – they almost feel like little galleries. Except when certain people have tantrums at them. 

In yummy mummy heaven at Crayon House. After sitting patiently with a Japanese picture book while I got our food,
Viv told me that the woman next to him was his friend. 

Yesterday Viv and I trekked to Crayon House in Omotesando. It's 4 levels of organic pretention and I LOVED IT. Yes, I spent $19 on a 200g bag of chia seeds, which I tell you I NEEDED. While the food in Tokyo is convenient, fresh and delicious, already after a week my whole system is struggling with white bread and sushi for every meal. I love this alternative eating system which involves you paying a fee for a plate/tray and then helping yourself to a buffet. Forget bain maries of horror, and think platters of incredible salads and dumplings, hotpots of subtle stews and big vats of rice and miso. The food is all chemical free, somewhat mysterious and unlike anything I've had in Melbourne. 

Today we had a similar experience in Ebisu, with cafe 'From the Farm' – a beautiful farm-to-table restaurant, all sourced from a single farm in Chibya. Pick your protein, collect your soup and bread and then load up on beautiful organic salads, veggies, dressings and sprinkles. I was planning on having a quiet solo lunch while Kent and Viv hit the galleries and playgrounds nearby, but it was too delicious to keep to myself! And seeing as I went for fourth helpings of potatoes, I needed the excuse of Viv's plate to keep loading up. Next time I promise to take a shot before I start licking the plate clean. 

I did have to repress laughing when one of the staff members gestured to the giant tub of shredded kale, and said 'the kale is very good'. I promise it was just kale – though given my limp attempt at growing it myself, she was right and I ate a shitload of it with sesame dressing, which is like some kind of Japanese sugar-crack. You could drizzle that on a shoe and I'd eat it. 

Level 3 of Crayon House – the best thing about children's shops in Tokyo is that there is a sample of EVERYTHING, so the kids can play or read while you browse. Sure, I would rather be browsing some new adidas for myself and perhaps a winter mu-mu, but am contenting myself with weird Japanese picture books and german wooden toys. 

Outside our apartment block just off Kappabashi st (kitchen utensil town!) with the little 'ball basket'. I got Viv an extremely overpriced ball at Crayon House (it seduced me with it's soft squishyness, designed for babies, but in my eyes, designed for a 'nearly getting three'-year-old who cannot for the life of him, resist chucking anything and everything as hard as he can. I figured this was likely to inflict the least amount of damage in the apartment. We found this little basket in one of the many ceramic shops (obviously) in the street, in an attempt to contain the ball between home and the park. We only lost it about 4 times, which involved a very pregnant me on all fours in a party goods warehouse around the corner, shoulder deep under one of the shelving units trying to rescue it. 

Just in case you thought we were having FAR TOO MUCH FUN, I thought I had better post an image of the laundry saga. The apartment does not, in fact have the dryer it said it did, nor does it have a clothes drying rack beyond this paltry little sock hanger and a single bar on the balcony. Did I mention our side of the building gets no sun and it is 0 fucking degrees most of the time?! Our host is in my bad books, can you tell? 

About 10 minutes before all the screaming. Though, while he can be a real little shit, Viv is exceptionally good at swallowing his pride and apologising to those affected, even in a foreign language – because we make him. This is at the surprisingly spacious Perch coffee in Daikanyama – incredible deliciousness and for me, worth the screaming. And check out that crazy heater! Don't put table and chairs in there folks, you can enjoy this instead! This is one of the things we love about Japan in general – this western vibe of 'cram as many people in for as much dollar value as possible' just doesn't seem to exist. The above image shows almost the entire seating area. Add a bit more space along the 2 walls and that's it. And the feature heater. 

YogaJaya in Daikanyama. Probably the highlight for me so far.
I love this area of Tokyo – it's tiny and hilly and ... indulgent. 

The second floor studio of YogaJaya – I was lucky enough to go to a class with just one other student (I'm not too sure if many more students would have fit!!). A style of yoga not dissimilar to my own training/teaching, with what I'm guessing is a bit of Pilates flavour too – looking forward to a few visits while I'm here, and again in the future when I'm not pregnant!
I do miss my core. 

Typical binary Tokyo streetscape.

Another noodle building. I think the stairwell is wider than the rooms?

On the Ginza line home. This woman was incredible from head to foot. She would have been in her 70s, and was immaculate. I couldn't help but wonder what she was doing on the subway with that insane diamond the size of my head on her finger, but then again, we're in Tokyo. 

All in all, we've decided that the more time we can spend outside, the better for everyone. It's all dependent on weather of course, and we probably do need to get ourselves organised with gloves and more clothing (oh dang). I don't think my 3 pairs of black leggings and big cardigan are going to cut it.

In case you're wondering about what Kent is up to (what with this being his residency and all), head on over to thesubmachine.net to read reviews of some of the shows he's seen so far. It's incredible how much he's packed in already, what with having lunch at the Australian Embassy yesterday with the diplomats and then going to the Octopus Slide park today with Viv. Sometimes I think we lead a strange life.

xox
Lucy

P.s. This is my first night in the apartment without crunky. It's hard but I think I'm going to make it. I'm doing all I can not to rush out to the convenience store around the corner to buy ALL THE TREATS. Pancreas, spleen: I'm doing this for you guys.

We need a map.

Another day of sushi, lattes, tantrums and slippery slides. So far we are embracing the banal of parenthood in style – what better place to do it than in central Tokyo?! Viv has won the hearts of the locals (rushing to the barista who made his 'baby-milk' to hug him this morning – actually I wanted to hug the barista too, the coffee was so splendid), making old ladies swoon with his 'konichi-wa!' at every opportunity.

Western* coffee costs upwards of (aus) $5 so it really does feel indulgent, but when you find the right one, it manages to destroy Melbourne coffee by a mile. Our 'local' spot is literally right across the road from our apartment, which is remarkable given there are no other consumables/convenience stores/cafes in the entire street (see our last post – we are staying in kitchen utensils street in Asakusa). The coffee stand (which Tokyo-ites are so fond of) is located within a trendy warehouse that is the home of a snazzy architectural firm. So far these hipster cafes do comfortable seating that looks uncomfortable incredibly well... 

Simple and elegant displays at Bridge Cafe. 

Less elegant child is happy to be here.

Thank god there is sushi on every corner. The kid is obsessed. 

Travelling with a small child, I've decided to keep my expectations low, and so far it's paying off – this is the view from the Asakusa Tourist and Cultural Centre – an impressive building from the outside too. 

My main goal today was to walk the 12 minutes (usually about 120 with a stroller, sushi stop, small meltdown, pause for water, get out of stroller to look at something ...) it takes to reach the Asakusa Tourist centre for a city map. Our collection of Tokyo maps is vast and infuriating. A certain someone who will remain nameless*** stupidly cut down our very good city map we bought last time we were here in order to reduce the effort in unfolding it, thus losing the entire eastern part of the city where we are now based for the next month. 

This area of Asakusa is very traditional and touristy, giving a feel of Kyoto. I'm looking forward to exploring it on a day that isn't Saturday. We actually passed an owl cafe, which included a woman standing out the front holding a beautiful live owl. 

Spot the dufus.

The side streets of Tokyo continue to melt my heart. 

I cannot express the joy I felt this evening when I found this at a convenience store. The outside is very cold
(4 degrees today) and indoors is like living inside a dry biscuit. So much dry heat!
I now need to somehow slather my entire body in this shit. 

Grandparents please don't worry. The kid is certainly not starving – we can't keep up with how much he needs to eat at the moment. I can't tell if he's simply growing or just greedy for al the delicious food!! Probably both. 

My biggest challenge is simplifying the way we prepare meals without missing out on eating properly. Decoding packaging is tricky, and we have a frypan and no bench top. I am balancing plates on the sink, the bin and the other hotplate. We're enjoying a mix of home-cooked and mystery precooked food from the local supermarket. I thought I bought tempura carrots this afternoon for snacky treat, took a bite into what then appeared to be fish sausage (um, no Japan, no). When we got home I google translated it to be sweet potato chicken. Needless to say it was weird and Viv loved it. 

In other news, I had a moment of panic when I thought Vivian may have had an ear infection. He was quite upset when he woke up from his nap, which went a little something like this:

"My ear! My ear is stuck!" (screams)

"What?! What's wrong, does it hurt? Show me"

"It's there! It's stuck!"

"Is there something in there??"

"Yes! Yes!" (more screams)

"What is it? I can't see anything"

"It's got ... bulldozers and diggers in it." (starts laughing hysterically). Oh the FUN!! 

So far our trip is a heady combination of banalmazing. We are experiencing the same everyday inane shit of being a parent: provide meals, change nappy, navigate stroller in supermarket, find another bloody playground, panic about impending virus/infection/rash, change another nappy, read story, accidentally on purpose skip bath. But we're doing it in fricken TOKYO, so everything has a shiny new wrapper (literally). The playgrounds are more fun, the supermarket has weird cool fun mysteries and the stories need to be made up because we just bought one in Japanese. 

Stay tuned for the adventure I've been avoiding, but is surely inevitable as we have some rainy days coming up: the Dreaded Indoor Playground.

xox

Lucy

*Luxurious milky lattes served by the coolest of cool** Japanese baristas who take so much pride and care in their skill, I feel some shame for our lax attitude toward something we view as so everyday at home. 

**Today's barista was wearing a black sequinned baseball cap like it was a normal thing that most people wear. 

***It was me. I cut up the maps. I'm an idiot.

Konichi-wa!

Hey team! I thought I'd reopen this account for our friends and family not on social media, to give a little back story to some of our pictures and share a few photos for those interested. 

Well, we did it! We've arrived, mostly unscathed, in Tokyo. Our flight in was pretty incredible (given the 45 minutes sitting on the tarmac not flying anywhere, the 2.5 year old and pregnant bump.) As predicted, our amazing bag of tricks remained zipped up while Viv spent 96% of the flight gazing at wonder at the little TV screen. Getting from the aeroplane to the apartment was another story. 

See the below shot for the general vibe. 

We've been here almost two days and already it feels like home. If home were a tiny tiny (really it's quite ridiculous) apartment and surrounded with people speaking an entirely different language. I'm not being dry, it really is homey here. Our apartment is so small it's nearly impossible to photograph. Our host put a huge amount of effort in our instructions to get here however forgot to attach our key to the padlock hanging out of the mailbox so that was fun when we arrived on Tuesday night (it turns out Kent is a whizz at digging around people's locked mailboxes with sticks, FYI).

There are signs everywhere in the apartment instructing us not to make a noise or the sound measuring device will alert the security company and we'll get kicked out. I'm still not sure what this device is, or where it is, so continually am searching the ceiling for smoke detector like devices that are catching me either shouting at Viv for being a little shit or muttering curses to our host for not including any knives (save the one large chopping knife), tea towels or teaspoons in the amenities. It is a strange place – we have about 47 towels but only 4 pillows. Seeing as two of those pillows are wedged on either side of Viv to prevent him from toppling out of his bed, it leaves the remaining two hankies and the cushions from the dining chairs for Kent and myself. All the weirdness is instantly forgiven as each night I am able to lower my entire body into a continually reheating hot bath, shortly followed by hot chocolate/tea and all the terrortastic Japanese treats. Look out for the pregnant butter ball in a month.

Viv passes out mere moments after doing a fragrant poo on Kent's back, while shouting (on the train)
"DON'T LOOK AT ME." 

Viv insists on wearing all of our hats and then being shown photographs of himself wearing all the hats.

The play area at Arts Chiyoda 3331 (where Kent's residency headquarters is) is fantastic.

Glitch coffee right around the corner from Kent's accomodation (that is really only there for emergencies as we have the apartment) – fantastic coffee and so cool it's embarrassing. 

And this is why we came back. Because only in Tokyo do you find taxidermy just lying about in the side streets outside people's apartments. 

Obligatory streetscape. These views are everywhere.

The Footbridge of Confusion and Tears at Ueno station. I walked about 14 circles around this place this morning. The elevators are prisms of mystery where the numbers can mean up or down or maybe neither. The steps are numerous and my fitness levels low. At least the small child was able to run.

Kappabashi shopping street – right where we are staying, this is the chef's shopping district. Viv notes that the giant chef-man on top of the building is 'a beautiful man!' 

Mum brownie points high for finding the promised playground. (This is a lie. I had no idea where the fuck we were going to find a playground without literally covering every single side street until we stumbled on one. I did not let him know this. I told him I was saving the best bit till last. As my brownie points were soon lost as we found this when I was busting for the toilet and busting to put this whinging little shitbag to bed for a nap. It's right near our apartment, so we'll be back!)

Proud mama moment – Viv finally plucks up his courage to go down the slide (it's been a work in progress since a violent ending last year involving a fluffy vest, too much velocity and black eye). 

I would like to kill him a lot of the time, but he's generally a pretty good sport in a new environment. I always feel more generous when he's sleeping.

Most importantly, Kent and I have found the good coffee, have located a couple of playgrounds and replenished our chocolate supplies. Today was Kent's first 'official' day of his residency, so it was with a huge amount of palpatations that we split paths on the train this morning – me to navigate Viv and the stroller and him the residency team. 

I am now pretty good at folding the stroller up and walking up and down train station steps. I'm about to wake the little man up to go and investigate the knife shop. (I went to two bloody playgrounds today, now it's my turn.) As you can probably tell by the images, the weather is pretty much perfect and we're just hoping it sticks around as much as possible! It's taking time to get used to the light – the sun is so low, so it constantly feels like either 7am or 6pm. It's just about on 3 and I want to get outside again before it gets too dark (around 4.30-5). 

See you soon with more anecdotes of the mysteries of inner city Japan! 

xx 

L.